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Daily Archives: January 20, 2013

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Fender Champ 12 Repair

Fender Champ 12 Repair
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Addition 6/6/13
READ THIS!!!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock

There is a big effect difference between voltage levels that break through the skin conductivity – which happens to be in the 400 to 500V DC range of our amp circuits! BE CAREFUL! Drain the secondary capacitors when the circuit is off and always check the circuit with a multimeter on both AC and DC sides before touching components or working on it – with the mains UNPLUGGED. If the Mains is plugged in, the plug socket and switch contacts are LIVE still, with the switch in the OFF position.
If you are testing the circuit after a change, make sure all you test leads, probes and croc clips are well insulated from your fingers and chassis contact points (chassis edges can be sharp too). I always connect the croc clips and meter and double check. I then plug in the fused mains side. I use the mains toggle switch to power the secondary with the indicator light connected so I can SEE power also, as well as checking the on/off position of the switch BEFORE I plug in the mains. I switch OFF and unplugged the mains, checking the meter voltage or current level has dropped to 0V, (or use a drain lead on the capacitors ASWELL) before I move any croc clips to a new circuit point for another measurement.
For the sake of a few extra seconds, why risk safety by not switching off and draining the circuit?
A 240V AC shock will certainly help you not make that mistake again if you ever forget any of this – if you are lucky enough to not get away with it! My last one left my right arm aching for an hour!
A 500V DC shock may mean you don’t get to worry about any of this ever again…but now you know why.
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This was a fiddly amp to work on, as it’s a bit of a hybrid of older point to point wiring for the valve holders, and a PCB for the channel volume, tone, distortion, presence and reverb sections, with a separate small mains PCB:

It is a bit of a cheap build with the cardboard reverb tank and untidy wiring layout, but then it has had a bit of repair work done to it, as the input jacks had been rewired to the PCB from prior breakage, and a techie had diagnosed the current fault of duff output transformer, according the EBay seller, which turned out to be correct.

It would have been a really straight forward repair – replace the OT transformer, but the previous tester/someone had wired the heater wires/heater secondary wires back to the mains PCB incorrectly, so I had no valve heaters lighting up on the first test after connecting a temporary Danbury OT, which meant me spending time getting familiar with the power supply section of the schematic for this amp:

First I removed the OT transformer next to the reverb to check the alleged failure, which was the OT primary being open circuit. I spent some time looking for replacement options on Ebay, which are only via companies like Mercury Magnetics in the US, and are expensive at £35 plus shipping.

As I had ordered a spare 15W OT to experiment with for the Guitar Amp Handbook kit build from www.ampmaker.com I checked with Barry that the specs for this would work with a Champ. It does, as most 6V6/6L6 output valves that use an inductive anode load have an output impedance of 2k-8k ohms, so there is all these options for different OT windings on the transformers Barry has built for him by Danbury Electronics in the UK:

You can get up to 6k ohm across all the OT secondaries so it works with the Champ anode.

http://www.ampmaker.com/store/15W-single-ended-output-transformer.html

The problem is this tranny is twice the size of the original Fender part, made by Shumacker (EIA606).

I researched this on the Web – Electronic Industry Association manufacturers codes – 606 is Shumacker.

I found a guy called willycom1 on Ebay, based in Indonesia who winds transformers to the same spec. for use in Champs and other amps, at a good price of £10 + £9 postage:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190658895716?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/willycom1?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

This is half the price of the US parts, so I bought a couple to try out, and he was helpful enough to question on the impedance. He can also wire mains transformers, but the weight makes shipping prohibitive.

This should be the right size for the chassis. In the mean time I thought I would use the Danbury, to get the Champ going. I had already checked all the valves for this amp in the Ashton, when doing the Fallen Angel repair, so knew that part was fine.

I soldered it in place, but as stated above had no response, as there was no heater glow and no 6.3V AC across the valve pins. I was worried at this point that the mains tranny was duff also. That would have been a pricey repair for this Ebay offering!

I de-soldered the mains windings to check them properly with the meter, and got sensible values of 50 ohms for the primary, and 1.5 ohms for the heaters.

As I had come that far, I thought I would look at the underside of the control PCB, where I found the input, line out and headphones jacks had been fixed previously:

This also accounted for why the messy wiring, and why reverb tank, speaker and OT wires had been soldered to the back side of the PCB – maybe by the previous tester, to save time until a proper repair was booked.

I took the time to tighten the valve holder pins as usual, as the 6L6 was nearly falling out when upside down with no spring holder, and gave them a blast with the now invaluable Servisol switch cleaner. I checked continuity across all the point to point wiring also.

Once I had worked out which contacts on the Mains PCB to use for the mains heaters and indicator LED, by studying the schematic and using the resistance meter, I got the wires back to where I thought they should have been, attached the speaker and re-tested with all controls to minimum. The indicator lit this time, and I got a lovely blue glow from the 6L6.

I had removed the footswitch from this amp as the cable needs repairing, so this amp is stuck on the overdrive channel – an oddity I had not thought about before – but if you short out the connection on the back of the PCB (pliers etc.) where the pedal wires go, to get the clean channel – it does not latch, so as soon as you remove the short, it reverts to OD again. As there is no front panel switch option, this is why the foot pedal is hardwired on this amp, and is not an optional jack plug in, which I thought about modding for this amp by drilling and adding a jack to the rear, so I could use the footswitch on other amps like the Fallen Angel. Hmm, not now I guess, as it would affect the resale price of this amp if I kept the footpedal probably, and not worth explaining the handy mod. I thought about this as I don’t like hardwired mains cables either – I prefer a kettle lead to plug in, as it makes testing that bit easier, with less wires around or to desolder/move when removing PCBs or chassis.

Anyway, it was enough for a brief test to assume all else is ok – the OD volume, gain, bass, treble and reverb is working. Until the Indonesian OT arrives, I will leave it on the bench and give it a full review then.
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7/12/13
A long time coming to get to this – but the “egg frying” noise with this amp was just a duff 12AX7 pre amp, solved with changing it for new one:

WiFi Hub noise eliminated with metal screens:

Only things left to fix for this amp now is the MP3 input, and the 1V line out sections…oh, and the reverb feedback issue…maybe in another year…?!

Amp Related Circuit Basics – Transformers, Rectifiers and Capacitors

        Amp Related Circuit Basics – Transformers, Rectifiers and Capacitors

I thought I would write a set of Posts on some basic aspects of electronics that are common to most circuits in one way or another, but leaning more toward actual valve amp circuits where possible. This is to help fix things in my mind as much as impart knowledge. Wikipedia is great for ease of reading, to get a general if not in depth understanding of basic principles, without having to take a full course in Electronics. If you can get your head around capacitors and inductors at even a basic level, it will help a lot in understanding the nuts and bolts of most audio circuits, which is why I have included so many links to different aspects of their functionality below. For now, a bit of history of valves is always a good start – they really are fascinating with a certain charm and character that solid state just doesn’t have – for me anyway.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_tube

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_amplifier

Valve manufacture and operation videos, Westinghouse and Mullard:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDvF89Bh27Y

Mains Transformers

The obvious place to start is with mains transformers, which are generally used for mains isolation and the stepping up or down of mains 240V (here in the UK) AC voltage/current to another value, usually less than 240V but sometimes higher in the case of valve based equipment like guitar amps and old valve radio and TV sets. Here’s a common schematic view of a valve amp transformer feeding the AC rectifiers via the first secondary winding, and the valve heater elements via the next lower voltage, higher current secondary winding:

Sometimes, there is a 6.3V mains bulb across the heater winding, as in the Marshall:

Or an LED with a 6.3V Zener diode across it as in the Fender Champ 12:


They are constructed in different ways, sometimes with many windings that output different voltages, usually around the same core of an iron based chassis as a squarish lump or can be toriodal, circular types. Higher output, more expensive types are made of iron/nickel/cobalt alloys like “Alnico”.


The strength and efficiency of a magnetic coil can be quantified in terms of its flux density – so many thousand lines of flux per square inch etc.

The secondary winding usually steps the voltage down for most household appliances like lamps or computers, but for valve amps is steps up to the higher value that is required for valve operation, and can be as high as 500V or more depending on circuit design below, and power output requirements. Later, the Champ is seen giving out 504V DC.

http://www.chambonino.com/construct/const17.html

Trannys designed for a 1000W Valve amp!:

The reason the DC side of a valve amp can reach such high DC levels is partly due to the step up windings obviously, but the thing that has to be remembered is that AC voltages are usually expressed as an RMS (root mean square) value, which – without getting too maths heavy here – is an approximate expression of its equivalent DC value for doing work in an electrical circuit. For example, a light bulb fed by a constant DC supply of 240V should give out the same average amount of light as one fed by 240V AC.

This means that RMS AC actually has a peak voltage level to its sinusoidal waveform that is higher than the RMS value by about 1.4 times (square root of 2), which means the 240V UK voltage peaks at about 339.5V. For a derivation of the maths proof of average AC power compared to a DC circuit, see here:
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/rms.htm

If you have forgotten what a sine wave looks like:

When a large smoothing capacitor is in the chain as part of the AC to DC rectification process, it will get charged to the higher PEAK value, which is why you have to be extra careful about discharging the DC side capacitors before working on a valve circuit board.

A clear example of where the transformer, rectifier diodes and smoothing capacitors sit in a valve amp is in the Ashton amp schematic:

The expected voltage values at the testing stage of that amp are (+/- 10%):

TP2 is at the top of C14 – 313V DC

My actual readings for the last column were:

265V AC

3.6V AC

3.6V AC

Test point 1 – 238V DC

335V DC

323V DC

314V DC

170V DC

155V DC

1.11V DC

0.39V DC

25.7VDC

 

Now can see how the 335V DC comes from the secondary step up windings of this particular transformer, to charge capacitor C14. You may see variations of 20-30V difference from amp to amp (hence the 10% testing allowance) depending on the transformer, and circuit resistances etc.

 

The original Fender Champ circuit is similar except for a centre-tapped mains secondary and 2 diode rectification, as all these basic 5W – 12W kit amps are based on older audio circuits, like the Williamson amplifier

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Williamson_amplifier#Design

and Mullard 5-10

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mullard_5-10

amplifiers, and others, usually without recognition, leading to the original 1957 Fender Champ:

 

And the more recent Champ 12:

 

 

This pic is a little unclear (above) but the 240V export model section here shows wires grey/orange/blue/green/yellow/black with the secondary wires (red/red/ and green/green):

 

 

This amp kicks out a big 504V DC between the secondary red wire to chassis earth!

 

 

Transformers are inductors, which have a reactance to AC ( a change in a steady DC state) measured in Ohms, as they create a back voltage in opposition to the one passing across them, as well as a magnetic field around themselves, which can induce electricity in another wire.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactance_(electronics)

This reactance is frequency dependent, so they have uses in frequency based functions in circuits, such as radio/TV station tuning and audio power impedance matching. They have a time period characteristic like capacitors, based on resonant frequency aspects,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frequency

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonant_frequency

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonant_circuit

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuned_circuit

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regenerative_circuit

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autodyne

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heterodyne

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Superheterodyne_receiver

which depends on their inductance value measured in Henrys, when used in charging/discharging circuits with capacitors and/or resistors.

 

Mains Rectifiers:

Valves or solid state components can be used for rectification. The GZ34 rectifier valve is a common example of a tube diode.

http://www.ampmaker.com/store/JJ-GZ34-rectifier-valve.html

If 4 diode solid state rectification is used, as in the Ashton amp, they usually look like this (if not all in a discrete component):

 

A way to remember how they are wired in the circuit is the DC load sits in the middle – exactly as in the Ashton schematic above also:

 

RectFilter.jpg

As you can see, as the AC voltage swings +ve and –ve, it can only go one way through the load = DC.

Once you have drawn this out yourself a few times you should remember it. You can see the effect of the smoothing capacitor as it discharges during the AC drop in voltage, keeping the DC level more constant across the load. As a general rule, the bigger capacitance the smoothing or “reservoir” capacitor has, the better the smoothing. You may see values as little as 8uF going up to 32uF, 47uF or 100uF, with 350V-600V working limits.

Another point is that 50Hz AC mains is in the low bass audible frequency band for humans, so any ripple here that makes its way through to the output stage will be heard as a low hum. A larger capacitor here will help pass this AC bass signal to earth, so can be viewed as part of the tone control for an amp.

The Fender Champ uses 2 diode rectification, and the mains transformer is usually centre tapped for this method to work, or set one diode to earth as the mid point, so the circuit can achieve the required valve voltage levels and still benefits from full wave (both half cycles) rectification:

 

The Marshall Mercury uses a single diode so can only achieve rectification for each positive half cycle of AC – current cant flow through the load during the negative half cycle:

This is the inefficient version as it only converts AC to DC every half cycle, so 50% of the mains is unused. Larger value smoothing capacitors are a must for this method so there is plenty of stored DC available to fill in until the next half cycle charge up.

There are some good visual examples of different ways these rectifier circuits can be drawn and applied, showing the phase and half cycles of the AC, here:

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/4.html

Mains Electrolytic Smoothing Capacitors

I have already mentioned these above, but a look at the circuits will show some common values of electrolytic types used for the AC rectification stage. These are the ones that need to be drained before working on a circuit to avoid lethal shocks. The values on the side state the charge capacity, e.g. 100uF at 450V DC working voltage. This means they should withstand that maximum voltage across them without failure, with the polarity the right way ONLY! They can explode if the polarity is reversed or they get shorted out when charged up. There is usually a stripe of arrows down the side pointing to the negative terminal.

For all capacitors in general, the value of the capacitance (quantity of charge it can store in microfarads) also dictates the time period of charging and discharging when connected in either series or parallel with inductors and/or resistors. This characteristic is used in frequency related aspects of circuits from radio/TV channel tuning to audio tone control circuits, or dynamic sound effects like tremolo (change in amplitude) and vibrato (change in frequency). (See the Tremolo section in the Marshall schematic, bottom left).

This can be created by capacitors and resistors in a resonant circuit, producing Amplitude Modulation of the output signal – there is a great java applet of AM and FM here:
AM/FM Applet

They also block DC so are intrinsic to pre and power amp stage signal routing. They prevent the (usually) higher, unwanted DC voltage found at a transistor emitter or valve anode being connected to the input (transistor base/valve gate) of the next stage, which would happen if connected directly, so that only the AC component of the signal passes to the next stage as C2 and C6 do below:

How Capacitors Work:
http://farside.ph.utexas.edu/teaching/302l/lectures/node46.html

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/capac.html

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/capchg.html

Farads.jpg

The important thing to understand in larger amps is that the voltage rating of a particular single cap – say 450V max which was common in the 60s – is not exceeded by stacking them in series, as the total voltage is now shared between them. These often came as large cans holding 2 or 3 caps in one housing, so it was easier to stack these 450V rated caps to handle larger voltages for higher power amps , as in a JMP Marshall example here:

50mF_yellow.jpg

As the caps are equal 32uF values each, only 250V is across each one – not the full 500V HT.

SeriesCaps.jpg

As the top caps lower plate is connected to the bottom caps upper plate so the same thing electrically, the two caps appear as one cap, still of the same original surface area, or plate size, as a single cap, so can still only store the same maximum amount of charge as one on its own. However, this total charge is now distributed equally between both caps, so their combined charge storage value of both together is now halved, or 16uF.
1/Ctotal = 1/C1 + 1/C2 = 1/32 + 1/32 = 2/32 = 1/16 so Ctotal =
16uF.
This would be quite a low value for first stage smoothing for an amp of this current draw potential, so NOW, another two in series are often seen added in parallel to the first pair, so their combined values in parallel ADD, to give 2 x 16uF in parallel to get back to effectively 1 large rated cap of 32uF in value, that can stand a high voltage of 500V DC.
In this case, 4 x 32uF, 450V rated caps have to be used to get the same required 32uF value of one cap that could stand the higher 500V+ voltage.
Nowadays, we can get much smaller physical size caps, that are larger capacitance values and can stand much higher working voltages.

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DC power and AC RMS values maths, courtesy http://www.doctronics.co.uk/rms.htm:
RMS AC Power and DC.docx